Dry Wall Fiberglass joint tape
Drywall joint tape is made of fiberglass
It’s the most ideal material for cracks repairing on the drywall, and joints strengthening on the ceilings, gypsum boards, etc.
Comparing to the paper tape which is widely used on the market, it’s much easier to use, no bubbles or blisters, and can be applied directly to the wall surface without pre-embedding required. Its tensile strength is up to 400N/50mm which is much stronger than paper tape. Furthermore, it’s non-organic, mold-resistant, long durability, which prevents the possible break that happens to paper tape after 3-5 years.
For plasterboard jointing and repairs. It is suitable for flat joints and corner joints to create a great finish.
This fiberglass joint tape has become very popular in construction and decoration for many years.
Re width and length, we can produce as per your requirement...We wl make the fiberglass drywall tape white, blue, yellow, and different widths according to your requirement.
Matt Density: Random
Tape Identification: Pale yellow color or white
Moisture Content: 0.5%
Water resistance, flexibility, softness
Resistance to aging and attack from the breakdown
Crack resistance, alkali resistance
With good cohesion
Easy to be operated
The above technical dates are standard for our company. Of course, we can produce as per your requirement. First, tell us your requirement or where you will use the products, then we will make samples and send you by courier. Please comment on /confirm the samples we send. We will try out best to satisfy your need. And of course, our fiber glass price is reasonable.
For your comfort when handling this tape, it's recommended you wear gloves and cover exposed skin.l Safety glasses and a dusk mask are recommended when loose fibers become airborne and come near your face. Wetting the tape prior to handling will minimize loose fibres. Wash hands immediately after use and before touching other parts of your body (eg eyes).
Packing, Loading, and Delivery:
Mat will be loaded into the container in the factory, then be delivered to the seaport, finally be shipped to customers port by ships/vessels. Commonly we assure you we can make delivery two weeks on getting your confirmed order.
We are a fiberglass factory majored in fiberglass/poly fiber since 2006, having many experiences in this line. You can trust us for our good service, profession, prompt delivery, and best price. We can offer any help at any time. If you have any questions/need, please contact us.
Fiberglass Joint Tape For Plasterboard Jointing And Repairing
Since a structural composite repair will typically be followed by a cosmetic repair, we will start with the instructions for the more severe damage. In this section, we will answer the frequently asked questions of "How do I repair fiberglass?" and "What do I need to repair fiberglass". This will be broken down into 4 steps:
1. Inspect and measure, identify and determine
2. Removing the damaged material and prepare the surface
3. Laminate the repair patch
4. Inspect the repair
There are four main categories for composite damage, your repair may involve one or all of these categories depending upon the severity of the impact or failure. The categories are as follows:
Tear — This damage results when the tensile strength of the composite part has been exceeded and the laminate has failed. This typically results in a fracture that extends completely through the substrate.
Hole or Puncture — This damage is typically a result of an impact or cutting. Holes and punctures are sometimes limited to surfacing layers or skins.
Crushed Core — This damage applies only to composite parts containing sandwich core materials. It is typically the result of an impact that forces the composite skin of the laminate to deflect—but not fail—causing the sandwich core material to collapse.
Delamination — This damage results in layers of the material separating from each other. It is typically caused by impact or stress between or across the layers.
Once you understand what type of damage you have, we recommend that you use a contrasting marker to outline the boundary of the damage. This will help you to understand the scope and magnitude of the damage, as well as offer you the chance to fully inspect your part. Take note, however, that you should inspect the damage carefully as the problem area often extends farther than can be easily detected visually. One inspection tip we can offer is the coin tap test. By tapping a coin around the surrounding area, you can quickly and easily generate an audible difference between a solid laminate, a crushed material, and a potentially delaminated area.
Once the extent of the damage and the type of material is known, you should determine whether the part in question should be repaired or whether you’re better off replacing it. If you’ve discovered the manufacturer’s specifications while you were identifying the necessary materials, check whether the damaged area is too large to be repaired. If no information can be reviewed, we recommend that you make a quick estimate of the materials and labor time needed for the repair. Compare this figure to the price of a new part. Typically, if you can achieve savings of at least 50 percent, you’ve met the cut—off to warrant proceeding with the repair.
Removing the damaged material and preparing the surface
Assuming you’ve already inspected the damaged area and marked it with a contrasting marker, you’re ready to begin removing the damaged material. When a part is broken or crushed, it can be difficult to realign the pieces because frayed fibers tend to "hang up" on one another. In order to maximize the strength of your repair, you will want to identify the sequence and orientation of the material as it is removed layer by layer. To help with this, use a saw blade to cut along the length of cracks or tears. This will relieve the stress on solid laminates, often allowing them to return to their original shape with little or no force. Parts constructed with a sandwich core material tend to pancake and mushroom, further complicating realignment. A router is excellent for removing damaged core material without disturbing intact face skins.
When removing damaged material, try to remove as little material as possible, so the scope of the repair does not grow larger than necessary. Be sure, however, to remove enough material to leave yourself with a solid laminate, which is necessary for a good repair. As you are removing damaged material, periodically stop and conduct another coin tap test. This will allow you to ensure you have removed all damaged material, and you should continue grinding or cutting away until all damaged material is removed.
After you’ve removed the damaged material, support the part so nothing is distorted during the repair process. Sometimes this is as simple as affixing a few strips of 2—inch wide masking tape, other times it is as elaborate as a custom-made clamping structure. Generally speaking, high—performance parts have tighter tolerances and will require a more precise support system. Once you’ve got the part supported, proceed with preparing the bonding surface. As mentioned above, this typically involves grinding or sanding a taper or steps in the material around the damage. This is the critical step for functional repairs, but it is also often overlooked or abused. Take your time and ensure your repair is performed correctly.
If a taper is to be used, measure the depth of the valley and calculate how far sanding must extend to achieve the desired ratio. Use your contrasting marker to mark the outer edge of your taper and begin sanding inward toward the valley. Be sure to remove the material slowly so that the taper progresses evenly. As you expose each layer, write down the fabric type and orientation so that you can replace it in the same way.
When step sanding, the initial calculation is even more precise. For example, assuming the damage is circular, two inches in diameter and there are five plies in the laminate, mark concentric circles expanding one—half inch per ply from the edge of the innermost circle. The final diameter of the prepared area will be seven inches. Begin sanding in the center until the deepest layer is exposed. Step out one—half inch and sand down to the second deepest layer and so on, until all five steps are prepared. A right-angle grinder offers the best feel and control for this delicate procedure.
With either method, for personal safety and cleanliness, we recommend that you tape the hose of a shop vacuum to the work surface so that dust can be removed while grinding is taking place. Additionally, be sure that you wear a respirator and if possible protective clothing as this is a very messy process and you want to be as protected as possible. When sanding is complete, the whole surface must be cleaned thoroughly. Vacuum any remaining dust and then wipe the surface thoroughly with a solvent rag. Acetone is usually sufficient for removing oil, grease, dust, wax, or other surface contaminants which could potentially interfere with your repair’s adhesion.
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